29 mars 2006

Current events in Lyon

The Strike continues:
Classes are still blocked at Lyon 2, for the most part. Classes are still being held at some of the smaller universities in town, but as I go to the main one, no such luck. Others have gotten into the building through underground passageways, but class attendance in those cases is pretty low.

Today was the big nationwide demonstration. It marched right past my apartment - apparently it was at least a mile long! It started at around 11:30 and went on for a couple hours. According to my sources, the unions are supposed to meet with the prime minister soon. If he concedes on some points, we can expect an end to the blockades and demonstrations. If not, we can expect more of the same. Tomorrow there is an "assemblé générale"at noon for the students as well. Tomorrow will mark week 3 of classes being impossible to go to for me.

As for exams, the "make up weeks" are supposed to absorb those missed classes. I'm not sure what will happen to mine since half my classes are just papers/projects anyway. They say that we won't be leaving any later than expected, but who knows what will happen if it continues like this.

UVA's Plans for Lyon
:
The University wants to set up an official program office here. This means that instead of our program directors working out of their home, they will have a separate office. They do deserve something like that for the amount of work they do for us.

However, UVA wants to expand it into a lot more than that. They want to do more handholding, set up more assistance for students who aren't as good in French: more international student classes, more English options. Frankly, if that's your case, you shouldn't be here for a semester. You're going to be one of those kids that gives study abroad a bad name. If that's you, take the summer program taught here by UVa professors. They also think we need a "common space" with a living room, kitchen, office. I disagree. We already hang out at each other's apartments with Americans. Secondly, I think we have all done fine getting all of our info together, so it doesn't need to be in a central spot. Granted, it was frustrating at first, but it's really not that hard to turn in a few papers or find an office. Builds character.

If UVA wants to encourage more students to study abroad, they should think about ways to decrease our program fees and encourage foreign immersion, not increase them by adding on offices and redundant hand-holding services that aren't worth the cost.

The Story Of An American Bagel In Lyon:
A group of us (2 Americans, 1 German, 1 Venezuelan, 1 Mexican) tried to check out this American-style bagel shop in town. Before you get all "that defeats the purpose" on me, it was sort of interesting to see how American cuisine is represented abroad anyway. unfortunately the store had closed 40 min before we got there. So, with all the other places in town closing or too expensive, we resorted to Plan Z, McDonald's. It was an American soiree after all. Hadn't been there in probably...a year? Who knows. The fries tasted a little different, less salty and oily. The burger had dijon mustard and no ketchup pre-squirted on it. There was the pomme-et-frites sauce that tasted like tartar sauce without the relish. It was a lot of food all at once, and I felt pretty gross afterwards. I can't imagine what it would have been like in the true American style with portions about twice the size.

We went to the weekly catholic prayer group afterwards. I had a lot of things to think about, especially after talking to the christian missionary guy at the hostel we stayed at this past weekend (oh yeah, it ended up being a christian hostel, randomly). i'm probably not the most religious person out there, but I think going once a week gives me a lot to think about, it's good.

At the hostel this weekend, I met a group of french exchange students from Anglophone countries. We had a nice little "french as a second language" conversation going on in French. They seemed to be having a lot of difficulties finding french students to talk to (Even more so than I do sometimes!), and it was pretty evident in their speaking style (Think "je ne sais pas" instead of "shè pas".) But it's nice to be able to make the effort with them and learn about their different experiences!

Ok, that's enough updating to hold my captive audience over for awhile. Time to get some sleep! Plenty to do tomorrow - checking out the AG, running some errands, seeing if I can get to my class building even, going to a bioethics lecture, are all on the agenda. Take care guys!

Mon Anniversaire de 21 ans!

I spent a great weekend celebrating my birthday in Amsterdam. Here's a little photojournal of the fun times...

The Story of Four Girls In A Male City

Amsterdam - so beautiful by night. This is what I saw when I arrived! It really is amazing. It's all lit up like a Christmas village.

Christen and I out celebrating the bday!

Emily and Karissa, Christen's roommates from Barcelona. They were so much fun!

Sunny day in Amsterdam! Haha, this was about the only time... This is some random museum. We didn't go in though. We had just come out of the Van Gogh museum, which was interesting, but kind of depressing at the end. No Van Gogh nights for us, we'll leave the absinthe and ear-cutting to the tortured artists.


Enjoying what was seriously the most amazing waffle ever. Tulips? Nah. Go to Amsterdam for the waffles.

Four girls in a male city. There's a red light district, dutch beer brands everywhere, the stores only stay open til 6pm (guys get tired of shopping), and all the stores are men's clothing anyway. We're making a movie.

The house that Anne Frank hid in with 7 other people...now a museum. It was pretty moving...but also a little saddening at the end. Amsterdam, Dark Museum Capital of the World.


Me and Christen along the canal on my birthday! PS, what is with me and this yellow sweater? I think I am wearing it in about every picture there is of me in Europe. Don't worry, I have other clothes. I think.

Prinsengracht canal...of course we had another name for it...

Karissa and Emily, the two beauties in the pink scarves

Amsterdam in the late afternoon

The Story of All the Shrimp Balls You Can Eat For 7.50 E
Four American girls, standing outside the Chinese buffet. "Should we go in?" "Do we want 7.50 worth of Chinese food?" Before we make up our minds or walk away, this tiny Asian woman opens the door and rushes us in. "Come in! Come in! Only 7.50! All you can eat! Try it! Try anything you like! It's all good! We have rice, egg roll, vegetable! Anything you like! Here! Try this shrimp ball! It's good! Eat as much as you like!" We reluctantly take the fried shrimp balls she force-feeds us. It tastes ok. "Come on in! Come! Sit down! You try anything you like!" We shrug and choose a table. Christen isn't so hungry anymore: "Why is she so pushy? Why does she want us to eat here so much? There's something not right about this!" Asian lady comes back. "You want buffet? It's good, try anything you want! You take plate!" We look back at each other, unsure. "Yes, try it! Come here! Come back with me! You try dumplings!" We are dragged to the back of the restaurant to the dumpling table. She opens the basket that says "not ready yet!!!" and hands Karissa a dumpling and walks away. "No! don't eat that! put it back!" we hiss. "no, not back in the basket! in the trash can!" (conveniently next to the dumpling table). We hurry out of the restaurant, leaving the pleading Asian woman behind in our dust. 10 minutes later, there is a bad aftertaste of overly salty shrimp ball in our mouths. But 7.50 left in our wallets, and probably a distinct lack of cat-meat related food poisoning.

The Story of All You Can Eat...But No More for 9.50
We apparently can't get enough of dubious Dutch-slash-Pan-Asian. We ended up having dinner at the chinese buffet where you can eat all you want in an hour. But if you leave anything on your plate, they charge you another 9.50. And they also have a cat running around the restaurant. And no TP in the bathroom. And four very, VERy loud obnoxious American girls. What a hilarious night.

Well, that's enough stories for one entry.

Upcoming Plans (don't you love this part):
1) Sweden is off. Plans to go Spain to enjoy sun instead.
2) Mom and Dad
3) Corsica and Nice & nearby villages. No further west than Marseille, probably. Southwest France will be for another weekend.

21 mars 2006

le printemps est arrivé!

The story of why we sang Aretha Franklin songs in the street:
Happy Spring everyone! It is beautiful in Lyon now. The sun is shining, it's warm enough to not have to wear a scarf (although it's recommended still to be stylish :) ). If you can measure spring by when you don't need a jacket anymore, it has definitely arrived because I didn't need one when I went running today. Man, running in the warm spring breeze is the best thing ever. Actually, running in the warm spring breeze in France is the best thing ever. In fact most things in France this semester are the best thing ever. So much elation going on in my head right now...

The story of what happens when you have a student discount:
I finally got myself to the Musée des Beaux-Arts (museum of fine arts) yesterday. Free student admission, I just waltzed right in! It was not spectacular, but still very nice, very much the "city fine arts museum" that many French towns seem to have. I browsed through half of it before they closed, seeing mostly paintings. There was something I found interesting - a series of paintings that this one artist had worked on for most of his career, and each painting went along with parts of a long poem that he wrote. Other than that, just your average offering of religious and impressionistic works. I didn't get to see the floor with antiquities, that will be for another day!

I turn 21 in 3 days!! Stay tuned for The Story of Four Girls in Amsterdam.

The story of why I am trying to contain my excitement:
Finally, I have decided when and where I am going to be traveling next month. Before it was just up in the air, now there is actually a plan! REALLY super excited about April. It is going to be the best month yet!
Upcoming Plans:
1) Sweden, ie, The Story of Laura trying to tell Ove things in bad Swedish and it being really kinda hilarious.
2) Parents are visiting! ie, the Story of Laura Being a Translator For the Week.
3) South of France/Corsica for spring break with Louise, ie, The Story of Two Girls vs The Island Folk.

20 mars 2006

The Story Of...

It certainly has been a week of ups and downs.

The story of how the past week turned into an honorary vacation:
The CPE demonstrations are turning everything into a bit of chaos and confusion. I haven't had class for a week now. Granted, I only have it 3 days a week, but an unexpected vacation like this is surprising, to say the least! It hardly feels like a vacation when we are waiting on a day-to-day basis to hear if there are classes. The break is nothing to complain about, but I would like to have my schedule and my education back soon. Why would they do this, you ask? From my understanding, it is not enough for them to demonstrate in the streets, they must interrupt a government function (like university classes) to make a greater statement to the government. A very interesting time period in France, I must say! But no, there is no violence in the streets in Lyon, and the demonstrations are even a little "fun" to watch. I will keep you all posted.

The story of how our apartment turned green:
It was another great weekend here in Lyon. I didn't get to go to Annecy as hoped, but it will be there another weekend. On Thursday, I could have been moping around the house all day (that's another story), but instead I went out with Caro to buy some beautiful plants for our apartment. We got fresh herbs (chives, cilantro, mint, and basil seeds) to eat - so scrumptious - and some flowers and leafy plants as well! Botanic is a fabulous wonderland of greenery! We really did have to drag ourselves out of that store. So I um, "grow up," haha (I will be this Friday!!), I've decided I will have a big garden full of lots of plants and flowers.

A story that ends with "and then I found 5 euros!":
Louise and I are right on schedule, for our preparation for the Lyon 10K. I'm looking forward to getting more into the training. Go team "...Et Puis J'ai Trouvé 5 Euros!" (By the way, to clear up any confusion, AHEM, that's for you Givanni, Louise is a girl's name..."So, um, do you have a new boyfriend? I see you are hanging out with this Louise guy a lot." Haha!!) Anyway. Saturday, instead of running around the bridges by the river like usual (that gets old), we decided to run up and into the park so we could go to Botanic (haha, yes, again) afterwards. I always enjoy a change of pace and more nature on a sunny day. At the store, we spotted some clay, unpainted pots next to some pretty painted ones. "Dude, why buy those when we can paint our own?" So more plants, more pots, and a paint-finding mission later, we have some beautiful pots, and they are called "the blending of earth and sky" and "the blending of sea and fire." Green/blue and red/blue for you less poetic ones out there.

The Story of How St. Patricks Day got celebrated by Canadian folk:
St Patrick's Day is not really a huge deal in France, at least it wasn't when we went to see some French friends of Olivia's at the local, um, Danish, pub. (I think they were a little confused on the concept.) There was no wearing of green, just a few "Irish" hats and bright orange wigs. Interestingly enough, there was a Canadian flag in the Danish pub on the Irish holiday.

The Story of Me Going To the Theatre 5 Minutes Before the Show:
In theatre news, I saw a good play on Saturday night, called Le Jeu de l'amour et du hasard (the game of love and "hazard"/gambling), by Marivaux (18th century, if i'm not mistaken). I was really excited that this was in Lyon at le Theatre de la Croix Rousse because I read this last semester, and it was one of my favorites. This particular production was much different than how I had imagined the play! The set was VERY minimalist, with only some unpainted wooden backdrops, doors, and a staircase. Lots more dramatic falling on the floor and romantic approaches than I would have imagined! Add some more singing and you would have had an opera. Now I know what French theatre is really supposed to look like.

The Story Of Upcoming plans:
The Netherlands with Christen to celebrate my birthday! Hello Amsterdam!!

11 mars 2006

The "On verra"

A decision was reached. We went out in the rain, after la fete chez les voisins didn't work out (trop de monde!), to Ayers Rock Cafe. 2 bridges of walking later, Wet Jacket and Drippy Purse go home, leaving Soaked Pants and Bleeding Mascara to persist on to the café. Sketchy I and Sketchy II greet us with an offer to warm up with dancing with them, but only them. We refuse by pretending not to understand "juh nay parle pass?". The sound of conversations only 5 inches from our ears and sweaty bodies pushing past us turn us off in search of more ambiant surroundings. Soaked Pants becomes Growling Belly, and the only kebab shop still open welcomes us with its meat pockets of absolute scrumptiousness and free espresso for being such good patrons. No-Longer-Growling-Belly and No-Longer-Bleeding-Mascara now satisfied and dry, we "non, nous sommes americaines" our way through questions of our nationality, questions of if there are Turks in the States, and questions (offers, rather) of international friendship. A good night, with plenty of promise for future good times.

Running news:
It is decided. Laura and Louise Attack the Marathon de Lyon! (louise attack is a french band...) 10 K (thats about 6 miles)...wish us bon courage!

10 mars 2006

the march birthday countdown begins...

So my birthday is officially in 14 days!
To celebrate, I'm going to the Netherlands with Christen (plus a couple of her friends are tagging along). We decided that was the best place since it will cost about the same for both of us to go and neither of us have been before! I'm really excited about the trip! I've been making a lot of "big trips" and saving my money on the weekends in between instead taking random little trips.

Anyway, the past few weeks I've been trying to focus on my classwork (semi-successfully) and doing fun things with friends (snow and sleet not holding us back ever!).

In religious news, last week I went to a church group at a local Catholic church (the one next to where they are building the department store. Classy, France, classy.) with a couple of my friends. The group is all in French, but it is not all that different from the ones I've gone to at UVA - songs, a priest, prayer. I actually understood most of the religious vocabulary - I didn't realize I knew that many religion-related words in French. I'll probably go again next week.

In political news, In French people are obsessed with demonstrations news, there has been a LOT of fuss of over the CPE that the government is passing. There are two sides to this...the bad part is that the young people here think that they will get fired after two years without any good explanation, the good part is that it is aimed to reduce unemployment and the amount of time that people spend doing internships after college; if you don't get fired, you have job security for a long time. But people are scared that they will be fired for things like getting pregnant. At Lyon 2, a lot of students have been on strike, busting into classes and stopping them (not any of mine though) , marching down the street along with other civil groups. My question is, would this law make employers more or less selective in hiring? The French students don't seem to ask that question, they are just focused on protesting, concerned that they will be fired without reason. Funny thing is that the employers don't seem to have anything to say about the CPE...

In athetic news, I've never been a runner - In the past I never understood the appeal of it...I always preferred to rollerblade, walk, ride my bike, or go to the gym. But since I have neither wheels nor an expensive gym membership here, combined with lots of free time, running has suddenly sounded a lot better these days :P So my goal is accomplish THIS within 9 weeks' time. Getting started was actually pretty easy...I've finished week 1 without getting discouraged one bit. Very few women run in France...and if they do it is on Sunday afternoons. So if I can run in France, I can get myself to run anywhere. That's why difficulties are there, right? Yes. It's perfect here too, the amount of time to walk down to the river is 5 minutes to warm up, and to make it around a few of the bridges and back takes exactly 20 minutues. Plus it's quiet and scenic there :)

Anyway, so I mention this to Louise... turns out she was doing the same plan last year! I couldn't believe it.
Louise: "so one day I was looking up couches on google, because we needed a new couch for our apartment, and I found the Couch Potato workout...so then I thought, forget the couch, I'll go running!"

Definitely much more interesting than how I started running. But on that note, we're going to run this together in the following weeks ...and THEN....the Lyon 5k. We're going to do it and we're going to get t-shirts and show them off at home along with our mad running skills. That's right.

In musical news, I did see a PHENOMENAL Mozart concert (Mozart's Requiem) at the Opera de Lyon. I was absolutely blown away - I had chills. The orchestra was impeccable, their interpretation was moving, and the chorus had an incredible blend. If I had had a seat, which I didn't since I had standing room tickets, I would have been on the edge of it :P

On that note, I've been listening to a lot more French music - *mostly* hip-hop and r&b - K-maro, MC Solaar, Tryo, NTM, Corneille, Amine, among others. Along with re-organizing my music collection :P

In news of coincidences, Caro and I discovered that we were actually at the same festival/concert at UVA two years ago (when she was visiting her cousin in the states!). That's so crazy, imagine, my future France roommate at Springfest and I didn't even know it!

In cheese news (YES THERE IS CHEESE NEWS. Just when you thought news could NOT possibly get any better), my new favorite is Saint Felicien - a soft cheese, a little bit softer than Brie, that's made in the Rhone-Alpes region - the kind I tried was probably made from cow's milk but it's also made from goat milk. Aged for at least 2 weeks.

In other gourmet news, I discovered that fennel and curry are best friends and taste excellent roasted in the oven with other spices and bouillon. Also great are crepes with caramelized clementines. Not to mention powdered soupe forestiere.

Alright, time to get some more of this work done...and maybe a random birthday party upstairs? On verra!

08 mars 2006

Winter Break in Normandy and Paris (part 2)

"Hmm want to go to Paris tonight?" Yes, so just like that, on a Wednesday night, Greg and I packed up and headed for the city. Greg's buddy Antoine (they have been friends all their lives) was gracious enough to host us in his apartment right outside the city in nearby Suresnes (pronounced something like "sue-wren" not "sirreznuhs"). And yes, you can TOTALLY see the Tour Eiffel from his apartment.

Yep. Definitely in France.

From his apartment at night...It sparkles every hour.

Greg, me, and Antoine. I hang out with Parisiens, dude.

Thursday, Greg and I went to the Tour Eiffel! It was a very cold cloudy Paris day, but I didn't let the horizon-obscuring fog stop me from having a good trip up to the very top! (we took the elevator...) On the 2nd level you can walk outside (it was cold and there were some flurries), but on the very top it is all glassed in so I didn't feel the dizzying height so much. Check out the view!

If you look closely you can see where the names are engraved.

Yay! I made it to the top!

La Seine



My new favorite picture of me ...


We also drove by the Arc de Triomphe and down the Champs-Elysees.

Lights from crazy Parisien drivers around the Arc de Triomphe.

On that note, driving in Paris is NUTS. There are no lines really. You just drive whereever you want "as long as you don't block or bother others," says Greg. Even on the highway. Lots of drivers have a GPS, he says (although my roommate disagrees), so no one even knows where they are going. Pedestrians don't cross the road...they run, clinging on to dear life, hoping their legs will carry them across the street before they are ecrasé by a maniac in a Peugeot. It was fun though...I like adventure :)

That Friday, I saw Versailles (the palace right outside of Paris)... the overwhelming monstrosity that angered the French when the king spent all of their money on it but now brings in millions of dollars of French tourism. it is truly "la gloire de la france" or whatever it was that was inscribed in stone on the front of the palace. inside we saw the Treasures of the Court of Saxe (meh...just some pretty things owned by royalty) and of slightly more interest, the Grand Apartments and the Hall of Mirrors. There's lots of historic paintings (including some depicting when the French helped the Americans in Yorktown during the American Revolution!) and ornate furniture, thrones, etc. The Hall of Mirrors was partially under renovation, so I didn't get to see it in all its glittery wonder. It looks out onto the grand expanse of gardens all around the palace.

We walked around Montmartre, the old artistic part of Paris for a little while. Check out the twilight sky. It just makes you want to draw lots of pastel pictures, doesn't it?

The square in Montmartre where there are lots of artists and creperies.

I'm not sure what's more French, this cathedral or the fact that Greg is eating a crepe.

As far as nightlife in Paris goes, we went to a student soiree one night and a latin-themed place the next. The student soiree was like nothing I have ever seen (I really shouldnt have to say that though, this is like my entire trip!) They had a variety of things...a live band, dj music, then a fashion show put on by students (with both guys and girls struttin' their stuff), then some student music acts. I thought that was pretty entertaining. Perhaps Greg will send me his pictures of that soon. The latin-themed place was VERY trendy and just magnificent (about 3 stories high I think!) with a beautiful staircase going all the way up to the top.

You can't go to Paris without going to at least one museum. The museum of choice was the Musee d'Orsay (free student night, score) with its many impressionist paintings. It was actually a train station back in the day. Ohh and check out the most beautiful room EVER.

Isn't it magnificent?

I had a fun trip, getting to be a little more relaxed because I was with French people and not tourists. I can't wait to go back (probably with Mom and Dad when they come visit) and see even more!

06 mars 2006

Winter Break in Normandy and Paris (part 1)

I had a very lovely trip to the north of France! Right after London, I went to Normandy to visit my friend Greg from Camp Echo (he was an international counselor there). I was lucky enough to be able to stay with him and his family in the hotel that they own in the village of Honfleur. The hotel was so luxurious! I hope I captured it in its full amazingness...There was nothing better than this after spending a weekend in a hostel bunk bed.
blue flowers...everywhere! i sort of felt like they were going to eat me.



The bathrobes were the best part...well almost as good as the huge bathtub to the right of this.


Breakfast in the hotel room. I could get used to this.

I felt right at home with his family. We had much fun helping each other with English and French over conversations at dinnertime. Of course the food was very good too! One of my favorite things about this trip was that Greg just learned English last year before coming to camp, so he understands what it's like to try to learn a language and go to a country where it's spoken. It was really a great opportunity for me to practice speaking more and I felt like his friends and family in Honfleur were pretty nice and interesting to speak with.

Greg's dad: "wait...I'm not ready for my photo op"

Thoi (Greg's dad's girlfriend (I think...I am not sure if they are married or not)) and his dad clowning around before dinner


One afternoon we had lunch chez sa grand-mere. This is was nothing I have ever been to before! The maison was incredibly beautiful - paintings hung on the walls, a big chandelier, lots of ornamentation everywhere. All of his family was there, and we had a big fancy lunch (the whole deal...appetizers, different courses, cheese, dessert...). I was like "no way...this is not real *pinches self*" the whole time.

Family portrait!



Greg's little brother Charles is always asking me if I have heard of X American rapper.


Having lunch with his grandmother. Don't you wish your dining room looked like this?

Cheers!

One afternoon I walked around Honfleur...it's tiny. You could walk anywhere you wanted within half an hour probably. I walked around the main street and then by the quai. It was cold and cloudy so I didn't spend as much time outside as I planned on, but I still got to get a sense of the town. It's a traditional fishing village, with everything centered around the old port in the middle. Sort of reminds me of a French version of Poquoson - small and the only thing to do is fish. Haha. Well maybe with a little more to bring in visitors. The countryside from Paris to Honfleur is also very pretty, it was a relief to see something green after being in the city for so long!

The Vieux Bassin (old harbor)

More of the harbor, with the hills in the background.

Local things to do are either go to nearby Deauville (a casino town) or hang out at the village pub.

Hanging out with Greg and his friends in Deauville...you can't really tell but this was actually a pretty swanky place with exotic palm trees and cool lighting and such. Greg likes to think he's a ladies man. Typical. That's his girlfriend on the left, not looking so happy.

Stay tuned for Part 2, Lauralicious in Paris (so I can finally answer all those naive "have you been to Paris" questions from Americans who don't know that there are other cities in France with "yes!")